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Smaragd, Federspiel, Steinfeder – Wachau Wine Made Simple
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Three terms that accompany every wine lover in the Wachau. What lies behind the classifications of Vinea Wachau – and which wine suits which occasion?
A classification unique to the Wachau
While other Austrian wine regions rely on the official DAC system, the Wachau goes its own way. The Vinea Wachau Nobilis Districtus – an association of Wachau winemakers – defined three quality levels back in 1983, based solely on the natural sugar content of the grapes. No chaptalisation, no enrichment, no added aromas. Just grape, soil and climate.
Steinfeder – the Light One
Named after a delicate feather grass that grows in the vineyards. Steinfeder wines have a maximum of 11.5 % alcohol and represent the lightest, fruitiest style. Perfect as an aperitif on the terrace or with cold starters. For a refreshing summer companion, a Steinfeder Grüner Veltliner is always a great choice.
Federspiel – the Classic
The name comes from falconry: the "Federspiel" was the lure used to call falcons back. Federspiel wines range between 11.5 % and 12.5 % alcohol and are considered the balanced heart of the Wachau. They pair beautifully with white meat, fish and Austrian inn cuisine – exactly what we serve at our Himmelsstiege restaurant.
Smaragd – the Royal
The emerald lizard, basking on the warm stone walls of the vineyard terraces in late summer, gave this category its name. Smaragd wines have at least 12.5 % alcohol and are made from fully ripe grapes. They are dense, complex and age splendidly. A Smaragd Riesling from a great site ranks among the most expressive white wines in the world.
Which wine for which moment?
- Afternoon walk, small snack: Steinfeder
- Multi-course dinner, fish, Wiener Schnitzel: Federspiel
- Festive occasion, aged cheese, long conversations: Smaragd
Try them yourself
At our own Weingut Pfeffel, we produce all three styles in-house. We are happy to arrange a private tasting on request – please ask at reception or call us on +43 2711 206.

